Each Chef Must Learn Here’: Modest Turkish Restaurant Ranks 4th on List of London’s Leading Restaurants.

Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred venues. However, situated high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has left the family utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble place earning such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary honour.

Derrick Carr
Derrick Carr

Elara is a tech enthusiast and writer passionate about innovation and storytelling.

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